Skiing on Mount Etna – Vanlife Adventure in Sicily (UK)

Sometimes fate (or the weather) leads you to the most unexpected places. Like Sicily, for example. In wintertime. To go skiing. On a volcano with lava flowing down its flanks…

What do you do when the god of winter ghosts you? When there’s no snow in the Alps, Julia’s backyard – or in Slovakia, where Viktor is from? Well, you head to Mount Etna. Especially when it’s erupting…

Some of us learn early on that setbacks can turn into opportunities. Julia Mehner was on her way to becoming a professional skier at a sports academy in Berchtesgaden until an injury stopped her. She was frustrated and broken, but she chose Innsbruck and she chose to go off-piste. Today, she’s one of the best freeriders in the Alps. And definitely not someone who remains patient when winter refuses to deliver fresh snow.

It wasn’t just the Alps missing their dump – Viktor Novák’s homeland, the High Tatras, were ignored, too. “We had a project planned here, and it was frustrating to see nothing but dry slopes, even in February.” Viktor is Julia’s partner, a freerider and a trail builder (and much more) at the Kalnica Bike Park in summertime.

“We checked google for snow – and we found it on Sicily.
Then we realized Etna was erupting, too. Perfect match. We had to go.”

Spontaneous road trip with a camper

It‘s the life’s lesson: check the doors – one is gonna open up into a new world… It’s mid-February, and things have to happen fast. The two have three days to plan and pack. “But having little time is always best”, says Viktor. “We spent the drive in the camper googling and asking ChatGPT where to ski on Etna, how close we could get to the lava and where to find the best food.”

Powder & Embers – Ride the Volcano!

It’s 1,500 kilometers from Innsbruck to the toe of Italy’s boot. A four-hour power nap near Naples will have to do, because the snow won’t wait. Over the next ten days, Julia and Viktor experience what might just be the most surreal ski days of their lives. They hike across the barren, steaming craters of Etna, getting up close to its slow-moving lava flow. They tour the southern flanks with their long, flat ascents. They hit the northern slopes, where T-bars ease the entry. Plus, the terrain is steeper and way more fun with the couloirs.

“The snow was unlike anything we’d ever skied. It shifted from solid ice to powder to fine layers of volcanic dust.
You had to adjust fast and ski a bit more careful. But it was incredible.”

The weather adds to the challenge. From the sea comes the wind, and with it, rapid changes. One minute, Etna is covered in fog; the next, a gust blows in sand, and suddenly, the sky clears. The temperatures are just as, uhm, diverse: “-5°C at the top and 20°C at the beach.” And then there are the people:

“The drive down there was hell. The roads are really bad, and the Italians crazy drivers. But once you’re on the island, everything is amazing. The food, the views, the people – just incredible. And it’s cheap! You can park your camper in ultra-beautiful spots, and the campsites are super affordable, too. I definitely want to come back this summer and bike on Etna.”

Taking the bike in the van to the volcano? Well, Viktor knows who delivers inspiration – the Adventure Crew. But then again, he also wants to highlight another must-visit for mountain bikers: “Bikepark Kalnica is one of the best bike parks in Europe and just an hour drive from Vienna. We’ve got top quality jump and flow trails, perfect if you want to progress from small jumps to really big ones. The food is cheap, beer is €1, and camping is free.”

Exploring Sicily by Camper – Our Tips

Sicily is a paradise for campers—especially in winter. Empty beaches, mild temperatures, and vanlife with a volcano view.

🚐 Wild Camping in Sicily – Allowed or Forbidden?

Officially, wild camping is not allowed in Italy, but in Sicily, it’s often tolerated—as long as you camp responsibly. In the off-season, you’ll find plenty of secluded spots along the coast or in the mountains. For a hassle-free stay, you can also use official campgrounds or RV parks.

⛺ Best Camping Spots in Sicily:

Lagoon Camping near Marsala – Perfect for kite surfers and nature lovers.
San Vito Lo Capo – A dream beach with nearby camping options.
Around Mount Etna – Campsites with volcano views and plenty of hiking and biking trails.
Cefalù – A charming coastal town with beachfront camping.
Punta Secca – A peaceful southern spot with Caribbean-like beaches.

💰 Costs & Infrastructure

Sicily is a budget-friendly destination for campers. Many campsites cost less than €10 per night, and wild camping is free. Most campgrounds offer showers, electricity, and laundry facilities—ideal for longer stays.

🛁 Hidden Gem: Hot Springs & Thermal Baths

After a ski tour or a long road trip, nothing beats a natural hot bath. Check out the Terme di Segesta or the hot rivers near Alcantara—a free spa experience in the heart of nature.